A New Way of Seeing

Around the dinner table, during coffee breaks, on long garden walks, and over hot kitchen stoves, we’ve been talking. Here we meet in Berlin, Toby and I and his parents, all transplants from sunny southern California, now living in Asia and Europe. And repeatedly the conversation turns back to comparisons: how convenient life was in the States while here it takes hours to get any errand accomplished; the greater access to culture and history and ease of travel in Europe; the unparalleled food and low cost of living in Thailand; transparency on one side, polarized politics on the other; to-die-for fashions and dreamy weather juxtaposed against injustices and stilted freedoms.

We see America differently from having lived abroad, now appreciating some things we used to take for granted, yet also taking taking advantage of other things we previously could not access.

This trip to Germany is not my first, but I’m getting the sense it will be a first. It’s my first time coming here after living in Asia. Where once, from the perspective of a flight from LAX to Tegelhof, stepping on German soil felt exotic and foreign, now it feels comfortingly familiar – so much so I’m often caught by surprise by the fact that I don’t speak the language and that I have to re-learn basic things like how much to tip and to stop smiling so much at strangers.

And this trip to Europe will actually be my longest stay in Europe yet. Instead of just popping by, I’m getting an opportunity to truly immerse. You orient yourself differently when you know you will be in a place for just a few days versus several weeks. It’s a different way of traveling; a different way to be.

Henry Miller once said, “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”

I wonder whether and how a month in Eastern Europe will change my way of seeing. Already I begin to sense the addition of more cultural milieus into my thoughts, awareness, and orientation. I begin to sense that the more you’ve been everywhere, the less you begin to fit in anywhere.

But that’s okay. If the world is a book, I’d prefer to read the whole story, not just one page.

“Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,
but by the moments that take our breath away.” 
- Author Unknown

What moments stole your breath away this week? 

Each Thursday, we come together to celebrate living life with intention by capturing a glimmer of the bigger picture through a simple moment. Have you found yourself in such a moment lately? Share it with us! 

Live. Capture. Share. Encourage.
This week we’re linking up at Sarah’s!

Tropical Rain

If all goes to plan, by the time you read this, I’ll be safely enveloped in the arms of family – in Berlin!

By all that was well-advised, I shouldn’t have gone there. I should have just walked across the street to our friendly neighborhood restaurant for lunch, so I could be in and out and back home tackling my to-do list in less than 45 minutes.

But instead, I followed craving and curiosity, and drove twenty minutes towards the busy end of town, through lunch traffic, hunted for parking, and walked the extra blocks to get to the ramen restaurant I’ve been meaning to try.

And by the time I parked, a hot day and turned into a rainy day, and just as I pulled my key from the ignition and opened my door, torrential rain began to pour.

{Lucky for me, I keep no less than 4 umbrellas in my car.}

{That’s a sign of experience.}

It was a good lunch, even if my sandle-clad feet were a bit dirty and wet. But, if I hadn’t have gone all the way there, to that restaurant, and sat in that table, and got the bright idea to try to catch the above photo out the window behind me…

…I also wouldn’t have caught this photo, one of my favorite reminders that I live in Thailand.

Yes, that is a truck bed full of passengers bearing umbrellas in an optimistic, if futile attempt to stay dry. Second only to the passengers bearing umbrellas on motorcycles in the rain.

Such a simple thing really. A tiny, insignificant moment. But it makes me smile.

“Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,
but by the moments that take our breath away.” 
- Author Unknown

What moments stole your breath away this week? 

Each Thursday, we come together to celebrate living life with intention by capturing a glimmer of the bigger picture through a simple moment. Have you found yourself in such a moment lately? Share it with us! 

Live. Capture. Share. Encourage.
This week we’re linking up at Melissa’s!

As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

Happy Tuesday everyone! Would you like a macaron with your coffee? I have some raspberry ones, passion fruit, caramel…I’m pretty sure chocolate is involved there too. Take your pick! These are from the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi’s bakery. When I saw they were 18 baht a piece (about 55 cents) I snatched them up like a fiend because the last time I saw macarons was in Hong Kong and they were more like US$5 a piece.

By the way, if you ever have a chance to come to Chiang Mai and can afford to stay at the Mandarin Oriental, you really should. That place is seriously Shangri La, with a gorgeous Asiatic-colonial aesthetic, vintage bicycles for the guests to ride around the property, cultivated rice fields and shimmering pools. My friend visiting from Prague works for Mandarin Oriental so we managed to snag a tour of the grounds with one of her colleagues. I don’t usually get excited about hotels, but this one makes me think we should save up our pennies for our next anniversary.

Anyway, the big excitement this week was Songkran – the Thai New Year, where everyone goes around with water guns and buckets of water and commences on a mission to get everyone else as wet as possible. We joined up with some friends and hopped in the back of a pickup truck with two huge barrels of water and hit the town. I managed to get one picture before I had to sneak my phone back into the safety of a ziplock bag.

The streets basically turn into a parking lot, with music pumping from loud speakers, vendors selling hot grilled snacks and water guns, pedestrians aiming water pistols at people passing by in trucks, and pickups full of people dumping buckets at everyone else. It took us approximately 5 hours to drive 3 kilometers.

Here’s my favorite picture from last year (taken from the safety of inside the truck cab):
I think it effectively captures the pure glee you see on everyone’s face. The water fight lasts 3 days and still it never ceases to amuse.

Plus, it’s 97+ degrees out here. Getting sprayed by cool water while enjoying a beer in the hot sun is pretty much the best thing I can think of for a good time.

We got home so tuckered that first day out, all we could manage was to order some pizza for dinner and crowd around the laptop and watch Bridesmaids.

What else did we do this week? We visited an organic farm, rode some elephants, played with baby tigers, ate some crickets and live shrimp, and bargain shopped at the night market. You know, the usual.

Anyway, have you all had a chance to read The Hunger Games trilogy? Don’t forget we’re having a discussion forum next Wednesday, April 25. Come back tomorrow, too, if you want to see some discussion questions I have in mind!

Well, it’s my friends’ last day here in Chiang Mai, so I’m gonna’ head out and soak up the last of our time together here. Hope you’re all having a great start to your week! Thanks for joining in for coffee and a chat. I’m looking forward to hearing about what’s going on in your part of the world!

 

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Growing A New Kind of Life

I’m not sure if this post falls specifically within the purview of Bigger Picture Moments, but it is something I would love to share. One of the surprises of my life here working with an NGO is that I find myself meeting some fantastically inspiring people from all kinds of walks of life: from grassroots community leaders, to governmental and inter-governmental officials, on down to brave children…and even to farmers.

This week my friends and I had the opportunity to go visit a farm about an hour’s drive away from Chiang Mai, where local farmers have created a cooperative to offer an organic and sustainable alternative to the industrial model of agriculture, much like American farmers who are trying to get away from corporations like Monsanto and their business practices. Ugh, that is so technical and dry-sounding, isn’t it? Here, let me show you what I saw:

We met a young Thai farmer, Ahn, who had grown up on a farm, working with his parents. He had left farm life to go to the city and get a university degree, but after completing his education, instead of staying in the city where he could get a high-paying job, he decided to go back to help his parents work the farm.
 His father had worked in agriculture his entire life as well, as had his forefathers before him, but he started to get sick. The doctor said he was getting sick because of the chemicals he was working with. The family decided then to switch to more organic processes, using things like fermented bananas and sugar mixtures instead of pesticides.

And instead of devoting fields to just one cash-crop like corn (and thus damaging the soil and environment in the name of profit), they engage in biodiversity practices, growing pineapples next to the santol fruits, herbs and veggies together next to rice paddies. It helps them out too, because if a year is bad for one particular crop, there is usually something else to harvest and sell. (By the way, did you know that pineapples grow on a small plant that takes up to two years to develop and it only produces one pineapple at a time? Crazy.)

Ahn’s family is just one of a cooperative of 500 families (over 1,500 people) who decided to eschew the industrial model and go back to tradition. At first, they were unorganized and had no idea about how to work within the laws and faced a multitude of complexities. But they decided to join forces, share their wealth of knowledge and experience to learn from each other, and they have regular meetings where they invite other experts to discuss issues they run into. When we had arrived, for example, they were holding a meeting to discuss carbon emissions and how to reduce them.

The other fascinating part of their project is, not only do they sell at local markets, they’ve started a program of selling weekly crates to individuals. For a 10-week subscription of 2000 baht ($67), you can get a 2′x3′x1′ (think big Rubbermaid container) crate of fresh fruits and vegetables delivered once a week. The produce changes depending on what’s seasonal, but the market value remains constant.

I just love hearing about and seeing this kind of thing. I find it so inspiring to see individuals stand up against corporate (or other) practices that they find harmful or unethical and forge a path that is more in line with their own sense of ethics and well-being. I love seeing people stand up and say, “This is my life and I will live it the best way I can.” I love seeing people empower themselves, and it’s so amazing to see this kind of courage, maturity, and leadership from someone so young.

This Thai farmer we met, who was so eloquent, hard-working, and determined? He is just 27 years old.

“Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,
but by the moments that take our breath away.” 
- Author Unknown

What moments stole your breath away this week? 

Each Thursday, we come together to celebrate living life with intention by capturing a glimmer of the bigger picture through a simple moment. Have you found yourself in such a moment lately? Share it with us! 

Live. Capture. Share. Encourage.
This week we’re linking up at Alita’s!
If you’d like to learn more about the cooperative, there is an article here.

As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

Happy Tuesday, everyone! How has your week been? Did you have a nice Easter weekend? Out here, the big excitement coming up is Songkran, the Thai New Year, where as some of you might recall from my posts last year, Thailand erupts in a three-day long water fight. That’s coming up starting Friday, though water guns and buckets are already being sold everywhere alongside gift baskets of incense and candles, monk’s cloths, and soap which people buy to bring to temple to make merit. With all that excitement going on here, I almost forgot it was Easter until just a couple days before.

I did get in the Easter spirit a bit though and made some deviled eggs.

I make mine with a dose of cumin and Burmese curry powder. It adds a nice zing. How do you make yours?

Songkran is a heck of a lot of fun; it’s such a treat to see and join in with an entire nation as the people indulge in their inner childishness for a few days. There are a few curmudgeons who grumble about getting wet (why, I don’t know, since it’s 98-degrees out here and the water cools you off), but they usually have the good sense to stay home.

But, as with any major holiday, it means you should be extra careful on the roads. To warn us all about public safety over the coming week, Thai female officers took to the streets…and danced.

Awesome.

In the meantime, Toby’s cousin Susi finished her trip down south on the islands and came back up to finish her trip in Chiang Mai. We all went to see The Hunger Games together, and then went out to eat noodle soup for dinner at the street-side stalls by the university.

By the way, if any well-meaning (but uptight) person warns you not to eat the street food in Thailand…IGNORE THEM. The food is cheap and varied and good – an experience not to miss. Sure, there isn’t the FDA or OSHA coming to check on them, but if you see a bunch of Thai people eating the food there, it’s a pretty safe bet it’s good. Also, most of the street vendors buy and prepare their food each day, so in many cases it’s fresher than what you would find in a restaurant where the food has been housed in a huge refrigerator for several days.

Tonight, our friends Nuala and Garren are flying in and we’re super excited to see them. If all goes to plan tomorrow, we’re going to try to head out to a big farm about a half hour outside of the city. It’s run by a couple of young guys who look more like college hipsters than local farmers, but it’s organic and fair trade, they deliver produce straight to your front door once a week, and they’re working on some awesome sustainable development projects to help out the local hill tribes here. I’m excited to go see what they’re up to!

And one last bit of news….today is my dad’s birthday! Happy Birthday Dad!! I wish I could be there to celebrate with you, but we’ll have to make do with Skype. I hope your birthday is fabulously full of love, good food, and good wine.

Hope everyone’s week is off to a good start! Thanks so much for dropping by.

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As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

Sometimes I get a little tired of living abroad and of being two or three steps out of my comfort zone. It’s great, and it’s what I want, but it does take energy. But then we have friends and family come to visit and that’s when I remember that where we live is awesome, because we can do things like:

Play with baby tigers!

I kind of want to take them home with me, except for the whole part where baby tigers become big, actual tigers. With fangs and claws. And diseases. And we wouldn’t need a litter box so much as a litter vault. Keeping them fed might be a challenge too.

I prefer bottle feeding them.
We also got a chance to check out this reservoir nearby we keep hearing about but never managed to go to. They have these fantastic little huts floating on bamboo poles right on the edge of the lake. You can sit inside and they bring your food right out to you, and you can eat and cool off in the lake all you want.

You can also teach your dog that she can swim. Whimpers, claw marks, and scratches included, free of charge.

She may act like she’ll never forgive you, but it’s pretty cool seeing the look of pride on her little face when she makes it to safety and everyone is cheering her and giving her snacks.

I may be anthropomorphizing a bit.

Plus, now she knows she can swim…which is a good thing because the last time she was near a large body of water, she fell in and sank. Good to know the doggie paddle instinct kicked in eventually.

Oh, and the food they serve includes goong dthen, literally, dancing shrimp. Because they are still alive, in their shells with antennae, served in a chili and lime sauce, when you eat them. Remember how last week I said I was a pretty adventurous eater? Um, yeah, I didn’t eat the shrimp. My husband did, and his comment was you have to chew quickly.

Anyway, that’s pretty much the excitement for last week. Toby’s cousin, Susi, is down south at the islands contemplating whether she should take a dive course, and our friends, Nuala & Garren are exploring sights in Bangkok, but they’ll all be up here in Chiang Mai next week. So this week, I’m just doing some house cleaning and laundry and getting as much work done as I can so I can play when they all get here.

What’s going on with you?

 

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As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

What’s in your cup today? I’m curled up on the couch with my snoring dog, and I’ve got me some Earl Grey to soothe the itch in my throat. I’m not sick (anymore, thank goodness!), but it’s burning season here. They’re burning all the crops and the air is filled with nasty smoke. Healthy. Our friends left town to go down south to Hua Hin (smart), but we can’t because my husband has Thai language classes in the afternoons and I have to be up here for work.

I think I’m a little bit in shock that February is almost over. March is going to go by just as fast, as I’ll be going out of town every weekend for work, except for one weekend: the one my husband’s cousin arrives from Germany for a visit! I’m super excited for her visit and the things we have planned for work, but there won’t be any lazy weekends for the next little while!

Not that we have many of those to begin with.

If we were meeting for coffee today, I’d probably tell you all about the massage we had last night. Which, by the way, massages are pretty much on the top ten list of Things That Are Fabulous About Thailand. Why? Because you can get a great hour-long massage for $5. Yes, you saw that right. Five buckeroos. You can’t even get a sandwich in the States for $5 (ok, at least not at the good delis in Santa Barbara). They’re not the luxury spa experience with private rooms (unless you get that kind of massage…and please, for the love of the children, don’t get that kind of massage) and Enya crooning. No, the massage beds are mats on a floor in a large communal room, you change clothes in a hidden corner, there are likely to be mosquitoes, and of course, an older matron watching over the babies in the parlor.

But they are perfectly comfortable and relaxing, soothing and quiet. Unless the Thai women are chatting…and then it’s just damn funny. I don’t think I laughed so hard through a massage session as I did last night.

They were a bit busy last night so, when we requested massages, they had to call in extras. My husband’s masseuse came in running, and she tried to explain in broken English that she had run there. Except her “run” sounded like “lun,” and my masseuse thought she was talking about “lunch”…so we had an impromptu English lesson on how to say “lunch” and “run.” The conversation died down…and then, every few minutes, my husband’s masseuse would pipe up with a very strong, definitive “Rrrun!” Massage, massage…”LUNCH!”

Jokes only ensued from there.

Anyway, I’ve got a couple things going on here blog-wise. The first, today, you can find me on Bigger Picture Blogs. We’ve got a prompt up to help inspire and share creativity! We’re writing the I Am poem. If you want to join in, you can find the prompt here, and do please link up with us! In the meantime, you can find mine here.

And second, I’ve decided to write a series of posts talking about different things I’ve learned and experienced here working with an NGO to fight child exploitation. I try not to talk about the subject too much in part because I’m sure you all don’t want to be subjected to a regular soapbox. But it occurred to me that the experience here on the ground is in many ways very different from how I first imagined or even assumed. So I thought it might be nice to share some of that with you. I promise it won’t be soapbox-y. I’m not trying to convince anyone to do or think anything, or take up arms. I’m just sharing some things that have stuck with me. If you’re interested to read them, I’ll be posting on it here daily for the week of March 5-9.

All right, it’s time for me to grab some breakfast (LUNCH!). Tell me, what’s going on in your corner of the world today?

 

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As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

Coffee, pen, and paper…my favorite way to start the day. I didn’t actually start today that way though. This morning, I got up early for a yoga session, a quick shower, and then a trip to the American consulate to renew my American passport (and finally get my married name on it). I was all geared up for yet another bureaucratic pain in the A…but it wasn’t. Everything was smooth, friendly, transparent, thoroughly explained, and efficient. And in two weeks, I should be all up to date with brand-spanking-new passport. Oh melt my heart. Why can’t all bureaucratic functions be this easy to work with? I drove away from the consulate on my little scooter feeling all international and a bit like Nicole Kidman in The Interpreter, and for about five minutes, I pretended I was a U.N. official and I might have sung a few Imogen Heap lyrics inside my helmet.

This week has been a good one. Productive, with a good deal of fun tucked in too. We saw a great romantic comedy at the movie theater, went to a fantastic sushi dinner with friends, found a great new place for cocktails (called The Glass Onion), and a deli called Mighty Moe’s with yummy American sandwiches.

 

I had definitely been missing good cocktails and great sandwiches. While The Glass Onion doesn’t do cocktails like New York (oh, Employees Only, how I miss you), these were definitely above Chiang Mai average. Mighty Moe’s sandwiches, however, were a slice from home. The only better tasting sandwiches I’ve had are the ones from South Coast Deli in Santa Barbara…but that’s just because they have those fantastic sauces. What’s your favorite kind of sandwich?

On the weekend, some friends invited us to go camping at this park with natural hot springs. It was a great set-up: for  200 baht (about $8) you get a tent that they put together for you. There are restaurants nearby, or a market where you can buy food to bring back to the camp. Playgrounds for kids, pools, showers and bathrooms close by too.

And for another couple hundred baht, they’ll build a huge fire for you.

This is my kind of camping. Not rustic so much, (and it would probably offend the purists) but definitely relaxing! I especially liked the part where we didn’t have to put away a tent or worry about hauling around fire-making supplies. There was a group of about 12 or 14 of us and it was like one big party. I made snickerdoodles, we noshed on Thai BBQ, went for a late night swim in the natural hot spring water, and the next day, headed out for rock climbing. Are you a camper? Are you a purist, or lazy like me?

Dot came too and she had such a blast. She ingratiated herself with everyone and did us proud as camp mascot. She thought it was such a treat to sleep with us in the tent (because we don’t normally let here anywhere near our bed at home) and to trek around on the rocks and hiking trails. By the time we were done she was so tuckered out, she was dragging butt and whining to get home and crash.

Since then, we’ve all been dragging butt, but in that happy, kids-after-Disneyland kind of way. I kind of like those days, though. Slow-moving, they’re my favorite for doing housework because getting organized makes me feel refreshed, and though I didn’t get any writing work done, I still feel productive. But today it’s back to business! And I need to do some prep work, too, for teaching at SOLD this weekend.

And I’m excited because I’ve been hearing so much about Downtown Abbey and I was moaning that we can’t get it out here…and then a friend said she would send it to me! I can’t wait to see what I’ve been missing. Do you watch Downtown Abbey?

Anyway, I’ve blathered on long enough! I hope your week is off to a good start! A week into February, already. I can tell this year is just going to fly by!

Kisses,
- J

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As Spotted on the Thai Side

Journaling Life in Thailand

Happy Chinese New Year and Welcome to the Year of the Dragon! I’m a monkey and apparently dragons and monkeys are good friends, so this year is supposed to be an auspicious one. Hear that, water dragon? Y’all better treat this metal monkey right!

Heh. What’s your Chinese sign? Does the dragon portend good or ill for you?

Chinese New Year does get some play in Thailand, especially if your ancestors were Chinese. There’s fireworks and dragons dancing through supermarkets followed by loud cymbals, and a flurry of red envelopes passed around. Everybody loves the red envelopes!

In other news, I think I might have been hit with a bit of culture shock upon coming home to Thailand after a week in Hong Kong. It’s funny how that happens: that the adjustment isn’t always in going away, but rather sometimes in coming back. I’m not sure what was going on exactly, but it was some kind of disgruntlement that lasted until I decided to go exploring. I found event calendars displaying what all of interest is going on in the city, found some intriguing Thai movies to go see, and started hunting for bakery and coffee supply shops for the specialty items missing in my life.

Ok, no lie. It’s the kitchen stuff that made me happy.

Especially when I found these:

See what’s up there on the shelf?

Pretty, vintage coffee grinders! Which I totally wanted to buy just to take a ton of pictures. Unfortunately, Luckily, I forgot to bring my cash with me.

The really funny thing was, I’d found a reference for one baking supply shop and one coffee supply shop. When I went looking for the coffee supply shop, I couldn’t find it. But I did find a store with baking supplies, including the rolling pin I needed. Then when I went looking for the baking supply shop, in it’s place was this fantastic coffee supply store with the above-mentioned vintage style coffee grinders. So Thailand for you.

This shop was a serious treasure trove though. It had everything you could imagine: flavored syrups, specialty stirrers, gorgeous latte cups, milk frothers, bialettis, adorable aprons, and even vacuum coffee machines that would look at home in any steampunk novel.

And in these days of calm after the storm, my little family of husband, wife, and dog, has been scrabbling close and closer to each other, so any lingering disgruntlement seems to have faded in those simple comforts.

In the meantime, one of the things I did bring back with me is a resurgence in my appreciation for tea. Good thing tea is easy to find in Thailand.

These days, I’m sipping jasmine.

What’s in your cup?

One more thing before you go! I know I don’t talk so much about my work with SOLD these days, but I’m writing on SOLD’s blog today, and I hope you’ll take a moment to read my post titled “It Happens So Fast”. A piece of my heart is there.

 

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as spotted on the thai side

Journaling Life in Thailand

My husband got a new iPhone, so he gave me his old one…which means I’m joining the world of Instagram and I might just be addicted. It also means I totally forget what photos I’ve shared here on my blog, because there’s so many I’ve been putting out into the ether.

 

I took off my flip flops – I was afraid they’d fall right off and then where would I be? Shoeless on a pachyderm, that’s where I’d be

Happy Tuesday everyone, by the way! If we were really meeting for coffee today, you’d see me comfily clothed in fisherman pants and layered tees, but I wouldn’t care, because I’d be busy inviting you to sit on this big, plush couch and offering a homemade latte.

Or if you were feeling adventurous, we could take you to imbibe wild civet coffee.

As in coffee where the beans have been eaten, digested, and shat out by a wild civet cat. Not for me, thank you. But you go ahead. I’ll watch.

We have reached the tail-end of my parents’ three-month long visit (and isn’t it fun how visitors can turn you into tourists in your own town?), but I actually had to miss the end to come up to Chiang Rai to work with SOLD for the weekend. It was good to reconnect with the kids after the Christmas holidays. I had a lazy Sunday, just hanging out with the director and his wife, chatting the day away and sipping coffee until going to church in the evening and meeting up with other staff for dinner afterward.

Then we have a group of university students visiting and I have to give a presentation today, then back home to Chiang Mai on Wednesday to unpack and repack because on Thursday WE GO TO HONG KONG!!! We’ll meet up again with my parents there, and after a few days together, they’ll head back to the States.

But I’m so excited to see Hong Kong! AND, if all goes to plan, I’ll get a chance to meet the fabulous Buckeroomama too!

Did I mention I’m excited?

It’ll be my first time anywhere in China (aside from airports) and I can’t wait! I can’t wait to see and shop and eat and share pictures of all the things I see. Beware Instagramers and FB buds….there may be a deluge in the coming week!

There’s probably more I could report, but right now my head is on Hong Kong mode, so I’m otherwise quite useless. But definitely check in over the course of the next week and I’ll sneak you a peek of a different kind of Asia.

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